2020 may have ended all predictions, but one thing never seems to change: there will be panettone. But what panettone?
Controversial and even qualified as bad at the end of the year, candied fruits and raisins lose space and free the baker’s creativity.
On the other hand, the ever popular chocolate remains a safe bet. But other ingredients were also on the attendance list, such as coumaru, cupuaçu, cashew, coconut and fleur de sel.
Lucas Rodrigues, of Padaria Peruíbe, explains that panettone has already emerged as a holiday bread, enriched with expensive ingredients and little consumed by the poorest layers, such as fruits and nuts. “Therefore, the new additions are in keeping with the spirit of the tradition,” he says.
European traditions shouldn’t be thrown out, he says – as long as his panettone brings Brazilian flavors, with ingredients like cornmeal and coumaru.
A follower of tradition, Italian Massimo Ferrari, of Felice and Maria, believes that variety only proves the importance of the classic. “It’s eternal, while the rest are in fashion.”
Below are directions on where to buy panettone in São Paulo – both traditional and different.
What defines this Christmas recipe?
There are many stories about how panettone was created. What is certain is that the recipe came from Milan, there, the tradition is taken so seriously that a decree determines the preparation of a real panettone – with two letters “T” – with a minimum. 20% candied fruit. But the rule is flexible and admits other flavors, provided you keep the standard pasta, which must be rich in egg yolks and very hydrated. The addition of citrus and vanilla essences is also important: this is what gives Panettone its characteristic flavor and aroma.
“I produce mine, with lemon, orange, vanilla and honey zest and an alcoholic drink, such as triple sec or rum,” explains Claudia Rezende, from the Zestzing bakery.
Next comes the dough, which can’t do without the citrus flavor or frayed texture. And the process is slow. “The dough should be prepared in two stages, always using sourdough, the natural yeast. In addition, to make it cute, you have to let it dry upside down, ” adds Rezende
UP TO R $ 60
The gastronomic center has its own line of panettone. New is the Cioccuvetta (R $ 49.95, with 550 g), with drops of milk chocolate, raisins, a sweet filling and almonds. In addition, the space provides a selection of imported products. Gran Galup Moscato (R $ 189.99; 1 kg), has raisins infused with DOCG Moscato D’Asti wine and covered with hazelnut glaze, sugar and almonds.
Av. Pres. Juscelino Kubitschek, 1 489, Vila Nova Conceição, southern region, tel. (11) 3279-3300. Mon to Sun: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Delivery via iFood. Pick-up offers on site
Jules the art of bread
Commissioned by Frenchman Pascal Abadie, the bakery produces panettone with French flour and a frangipane cone, made with almonds and ice cream. The traditional version has candied fruit and raisins bathed in rum (R $ 40). Chocolate, on the other hand, has semi-bitter cocoa (R $ 45).
Al. Dos Anapurus, 942, Indianópolis, South Region, tel. 5055-4537. 38 seats. Monday to Saturday: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday: 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Delivery via Whatsapp (11) 98090-5050 or the Bakery Jules app. Pick up on site.
Padoca do Maní
The bakery of the Michelin-starred restaurant run by chef Helena Rizzo offers two recipes prepared with natural fermentation. The traditional has vanilla, candied fruit, black raisins, and orange zest and lemons. Citrus flavors also appear in chocotone, in which milk chocolate replaces fruit. Each panettone costs R $ 60 and weighs 520g.
R. Joaquim Antunes, 138, Pinheiros, West Region, Tel. (11) 2579-2410. Eight seats. Mon to Fri: 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sat .: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sun: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Delivery via iFood. Pick-up offers on site
Lucas Rodrigues opened the bakery in August in the Pinheiros district. There, the panettone is made with cornmeal, coumaru, raisins, candied cider, in a recipe flavored with tangerine jam. The creation costs R $ 35, with 600 g. In partnership with the Catarina cafeteria, the place also offers a kit that includes a special coffee to match the recipe – in this version the price is R $ 85. On the site, items can be purchased from Monday 30, with delivery on Friday 4 December. In the physical store, purchases are made from Thursday 3.
R. Fradique Coutinho, 711, Pinheiros, western region. Thu. to Sat .: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Ordered by padariaperuibe.com.br (delivered on Friday). Pick-up offers on site
UP TO R $ 100
Already one of the end-of-year traditions of the pizzeria, the Christmas recipe has been offered by the chain for more than ten years. In it, the natural fermentation dough is filled with chocolate drops and pieces of candied orange, as well as a sweet almond flour on top. The panettone weighs 1 kg and costs R $ 82.
R. Apucarana, 1.572, Tatuapé, eastern region, tel. (11) 2268-2501. 105 seats. Tue to Sun: 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Delivery via iFood, Rappi and Uber Eats. Pick-up offers on site
The stores of famous confectioner Buddy Valastro, better known as Cake Boss and by television programs, bring two new flavors of Christmas bread – they are truffle, filled and coated in chocolate (R $ 79.90, with 720 g; or R $ 99.90, with 1.3 kg), and the stuffed with dulce de leche and flor de sal, which has a white chocolate coating. This latest version is sold for R $ 79.90, with 620 g, or R $ 99.90, with 1.1 kg.
R. Bela Cintra 2.182, Consolação, western region, tel. (11) 2306-0687. 150 places. Monday to Thursday and Sun: 10 a.m.
at 21h. Fri and Sat: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Delivery via iFood. Pick-up offers on site
Very Brazilian flavors stand out among the brand’s recipes, with five versions. Among them, the guava with grated coconut and milk chocolate, cupuaçu and orange (88 R $ each, with 500 g). Another tip is the mini, with chocolate chips (R $ 48, with 230 g).
Shopping Pátio Higienópolis – av. Higienópolis, 618, central region, tel. (11) 3823-2743. Tuesday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sat: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Offers on-site delivery and pickup
In Tatuapé, the bakery won another unit in the Garden area in November and offers two panettone recipes starting this Saturday 28. The traditional has white and black grapes, lemon and orange peels and a garnish. pearl sugar. Chocotone, on the other hand, has drips of semi-dark chocolate, orange peels, and an almond filling – at R $ 70 each, with 500g.
R. Azevedo Soares, 2.532, Vila Gomes Cardim, Eastern Region, tel. (11) 2293-7260. 43 seats. Monday to Saturday: 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Offers on-site delivery and pickup
After five years with only direct sales, Claudia Rezende opened the physical point of her bakery in September. Sold on Fridays and Saturdays, the panettone receives a version with chocolate drops (63 R $, with 500 g) and another with cupuaçu, candied orange and Brazil nuts (66 R $, 500 g ).
Al. Tietê, 496, Cerqueira César, western region. Tuesday to Friday: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Orders by tel. (11) 94340-9515. Delivery (except Saturday). Pick up offers on site.
OVER R $ 100
Felice and Maria
Chef Massimo Ferrari has bet on tradition and offers his mother’s panettone recipe, with a natural fermentation paste, candied fruit, a sweet almond crust – and that’s it. The product weighs 1 kg and costs R $ 148. It can be accompanied by a Santa Claus doll, in a R $ 168 version.
R. Helion Póvoa, 45/65, Vila Olímpia, southern region, tel. (11) 3849-2504. Monday to Sunday: 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Offers delivery and pickup
The bakery launches four panettone, made from natural dough with long fermentation, which must be ordered by the application itself. Among the flavors, Tradizionale comes with pieces of candied orange, lemon and pear (R $ 110, 600 g). Another suggestion is Oro Verde, with white chocolate coating and pistachio cream filling (R $ 150, 780 g).
Orders via the Filone app. Deliveries: Mon. to Fri .: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Sat and public holidays: 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. WhatsApp (11) 94708-8031
The Swiss brand has prepared four versions of chocotone and offers a collection of edible treats. Their sweet rolls are shorter and have a larger diameter than regular rolls. There is the milk chocolate truffle, which costs R $ 124.90, with 900 g. Another option from the store is the Sicilian orange with dark chocolate drops, which costs R $ 99.90 and weighs 700g.
Shopping Anália Franco – av. Reg Feijó, 1.739, Vila Regente Feijó, eastern region, tel. (11) 2676-7770. Mon to Sat: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sun: 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. Delivery via Rappi and iFood.