On a recent trip to Recife, I went to visit Arvo, a restaurant set in a large green courtyard that I already frequented on the hammocks. This model of proposal provokes a particular attraction in the big centers with its appeal of “grandmother’s garden”, but it is well known that just having a comfortable space is not enough.
In the food and beverage industry, more and more experience matters: food, service, the environment and, of course, good company. And when this equation is in unison, we understand the application of the term “restoration”. This is the magic of great restaurants.
The walls painted by local artists make the courtyard a veritable open-air gallery.
Recife’s gastronomic scene is rich and diverse. The offer of freshly caught fish divides the attention with the meat in regional preparations and has been renewed with the adoption of techniques and new approaches. This is where Arvo’s cuisine comes in. Chef Pedro Godoy, a graduate in gastronomy from Senac PE, has in his baggage experiences in Oficina do Sabor and Beijupirá, in Olinda, and Wiella Bistrô, in Recife, in addition to a three-year stay in Australia. And Arvo emerged a year ago as a space to exercise stimulating cuisine that renews regional cuisine with creative and flavorful dishes.
The house occupies a huge lot full of trees – where its name originates from – and is a place to contemplate. The public, with a very plural profile, arrives for breakfast on weekends and ends up mending lunch. Godoy and his partner, Eduardo Freyre, will soon be announcing the opening of a gastronomy school on site. Long live entrepreneurship!
Dried tuna (R $ 70) is a great way to start a meal at Arvo. Dried fish leaves covered with aioli, capers, spicy raisins, flower petals and sprouts. It is served with homemade pita bread.
The termite kibbles (R $ 28) are also lovely. They arrive crunchy and dry, well exploring the creamy flavor of the meat, which can be enhanced by the pepper-flavored vinaigrette and also by the aioli.
The drinks menu is signed by Dilton Sales and features creations such as La Tamarinda (R $ 25), with gin, tamarind, orange juice and soda and Tacagin, a refreshing cocktail that comes in the bowl. tacacá, with gin, tamarind syrup, tonic and cinnamon.
The lamb burguinho (R $ 40) has the meat grilled and caramelized in the frosting itself, enhancing its flavor. And the chef chose the delicious soft bread for the assembly, covered with Parmesan.
This small saucepan can hold cubes of termites roasted in cream of corn (R $ 40), a combination that thrills. Arrives accompanied by a vinaigrette of green beans and rice flour flakes.
Here is the filet mignon ground meat with fried gnocchi (R $ 98). A portion to share that brings the sliced meat to an irresistible rapy of brown sugar and grilled onions. A dense broth to be enjoyed until the last drop.
The Parmesan potato gnocchi are breaded, garnished with fried onions on a green corn béchamel sauce. An accompaniment with the face of a protagonist and which is surprisingly light.
How to end this meal with more Brazilian? Order the creamy tapioca pudding with fresh coconut milk (R $ 30) with açaí ice cream, caramelized popcorn with powdered milk and hot cupuaçu sauce.
Another option is Chocolatudo (R $ 28), which brings the ingredient in five textures. The cheesecake (R $ 25), discreet at the bottom of the photo, brings strawberry syrup and uses almond cookie. Trivial that surprises.
The restaurant’s vegetable garden occupies the land behind the kitchen and provides much of the herbs and vegetables used in the preparations.
Arvo is one of Recife’s must-see attractions, along with two other favorite “backyards”: Cá-já and Reteteu Comida Honesta. Places to eat well in pleasant environments, connected to rich regional traditions but with a foothold in the future.
Arvo Restaurante – map here
Address: Rua Djalma Farias, 170, Torreão, Recife / PE
Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday – 11:45 a.m. to 4 p.m. / Breakfast: Saturday and Sunday – 8 a.m. to 11 a.m.
Photos: Marcelo Katsuki / Folhapress and disclosure (chef photo)